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Application of dye using spray
Application of dye using spray
If your leather or vinyl is heavily discoloured, please read “Colour Changing Leather or Vinyl”
Section 2, Example 1.
Please insure you have read and understood “Cleaning & Preparing leather” before you attempt to apply colour to your leather or vinyl.
Leather is different to vinyl and the most obvious point from a renovation prospective is that leather has, or develops pores. Vinyl on the other had does not.
So, preparation prior to dye application for leather and vinyl is different.
Water+ Dye ratio for spraying
As a guide we always use 30% water as the equipment we use will spray this mix ratio with no issues.
If you are looking to use an airbrush then depending on your equipment, you may have to add 40%-50% water to enable it to spray correctly.
**Important**
Water
If your intention is to have NO dye left after colouring then you can use tap water.
If your intention is to keep dye that has been mixed with water for a prolonged period (4+months) for future use, then we strongly suggest you use distilled water or similar.
Impurities in tap water when mixed with dye and stored for longer periods can result in the dye “turning” rendering it useless.
Or, you can just mix what you require, removing the need to acquire distilled water.
Section 1 will cover dying leather.
Section 1.1 will cover dying brand new leather.
Section 2 will cover dying vinyl.
Section 2.2 will cover dying brand new vinyl.
Section 1
Leather
Dyes will adhere to leather excellently.
EP (Extra Prep):
The application of EP (Extra Prep) is not entirely necessary but we apply EP to every interior renovated as it has fantastic adhesion properties for when the dye is applied.
EP 1&2 are mixed together and applied onto leather or vinyl, either with a sponge, spraying or both. Once mixed it MUST be applied with at least one coat of dye over the top if it within 2 hours.
BL7 Precoat:
Precoat is a single part solution so no mixing required prior to dye application. It can be used straight out of the bottle. While not as good as EP, it is easier and quicker to use and has a longer leave time before dye must be applied.
Process
A. Wipe over with BL16 Degreaser and dry. This will dry and will not leave a residue. Once you have dried BL16 off then your leather will be in its cleanest state.
B. Mix and apply EP (extra Prep) this can be sponged on or sprayed. Do not dilute this product with water. EP Mixing ratios document can be downloaded from our instructions page. Apply first coat of EP and dry. Once dry apply second coat of EP and dry. EP will stay slightly tacky which is what you want. The application of dye onto EP must be done with 2 hours. If you are going to dye a full interior in one go then it is best, you apply EP to all leather parts and then apply at least one coat of dye on top of the EP. You can then concentrate on one part without worrying about the rest of the interior.
Applying one coat of dye after EP ensures that the dye has excellent grip to the Leather after which you will be applying dye on top of dye. If you run out of time and want to continue the next day, then because you have applied one coat of dye over EP you can do this. If you applied EP on NO coats of dye and decided to continue the next day (or after 2 hours) then you will need to start over again and mix/apply EP.
Application of dye using a spraying method in something that you will perfect the more you do it, so our advice is to spray some cardboard, perfect your technique/application before moving onto interior parts.
C. Dyes are water based and are mixed with water for when you look to recolour your seats. There are a few instances when you will use neat dye. These areas are when the original colour has been completely worn away. Applying neat dye reduces the number of coats on these areas and gives a good key for when subsequent diluted coats are applied.
So, before you mix your dye, apply neat dye (with a sponge) onto areas where the original colour has been removed, heavy wear, deep scratches, light marks and areas that are cracked. The seat may look a bit of a patchwork of colour but what you are doing is isolating and preparing heavier warn areas for when you dilute and apply dye to the rest of the leather.
After removing, masking up parts that you do not want to get dye on, mix dye with 30% water and filter into a clean container.
If you do not have filter paper then you can stretch some tights over a container and pour the dye through this.
The first coat of dye that you will apply will be light, you may not see much change but it’s what you cannot see that is the good part.
Dry the first coat and then on the second coat you can apply more dye. With lighter colours you will need to apply more coats than if you were applying darker colours. (remember this when ordering colours)
In-between each coat, dry with a hairdryer and repeat until you get a uniform finish.
Spraying dye is the best way to get a factory matt finish.
D. Leave the dye and leather to cool. Once cool, if you lightly rub your hand over the finished surface and it feels a little gritty then you can use some 800 wet and dry sand paper (use dry NOT wet) and lightly sand. Wipe the sanding dust off with a damp cloth, dry and apply one last coat.
The dye MUST dry and cool before you sand with 800 grit. If you do this whilst still warm the dye can be removed
E. If you want to add an extra layer of wear protection, then you can apply BL9 Super Matt sealer or for gloss BL10 Gloss sealer. Again, mix with 30% water and use the same technique as when applying the dye and we advise filtering the sealer. For a satin finish add small amounts of BL10 Gloss sealer with BL9 Super Matt until the desired finish is achieved.
For the ultimate in surface protection, you can use TCP (Top Coat Protection). A two-part mixture that must be applied within 3 hours of mixing. There is no need to filter TCP prior to spray application.
You cannot condition leather after dye has been applied for at least 6 to 8 months
Section 1.1
Dying New leather
If you have had a bolster (most common) or another panel replaced through damage or wear, then you may notice that the new leather does not match. Be it colour or shade.
In this instance you can either dye the new leather the same shade as the rest of the seat or (we recommend) renovate the whole seat including the new leather so that it’s a uniform match.
New leather will have a protective clear coat that Is applied at the tannery. This clear coat can cause adhesion issues, so we would recommend braking down this clear coat before dye application.
This can be done using BL19 stripping solvent or thinners. You will know when the clear coat has been broken down due to the cloth dragging as opposed to slipping over the surface of the leather. Once the cloth starts to grip or drag then you know you have done enough.
Once you are at this stage then refer to Section 1, Leather, and Process Point A above.
It is entirely possible to dye a piece of new leather that is not of a similar colour to the leather that it will be sewn to.
For example:
It you have a cream leather interior, you can use a new beige, light or mid grey leather piece and then dye it to match. You can even go as far as dying black leather to cream, but we would suggest using a light leather as this will require less coats of dye.
If you are thinking about completely changing the colour of you leather, see instruction for “Colour Changing Leather or Vinyl” on our instruction page.
Do not apply conditioner onto dyed leather for at least 6 to 8 months.
Section 2
Vinyl
Dyes will adhere to vinyl but not that well. If you are intending to use dyes on low wear areas that see no, or very little traffic then you are ok to use the dye only.
If you are intending to use dyes on high wear areas such as seat faces, doorcards and lower dash trims (which are vinyl and not plastic) then you MUST use EP (extra Prep). Failure to use EP will result in a short-lived repair.
Extra prep (EP)
EP 1&2 are mixed together and applied onto leather or vinyl, either with a sponge, spraying or both. EP provides a solid foundation onto which the dye is applied.
Process
A. Wipe over all Vinyl with BL8 Silicone Remover and dry.
B. Wipe over with BL16 Leather degreaser and dry. This will dry and will not leave a residue. Once you have dried BL16 off then your vinyl will be in its cleanest state.
C. Mix and apply EP (extra Prep) this can be sponged on or sprayed. Do not dilute this product with water. EP Mixing ratios document can be downloaded from our instructions page. Apply first coat of EP and dry. Once dry apply second coat of EP and dry. EP will stay slightly tacky which is what you want. The application of dye onto EP must be done with 2 hours. If you are going to dye a full interior in one go then it is best, you apply EP to all the Vinyl and then apply at least one coat of dye on top of the EP. Then you can concentrate on one part without worrying about the rest of the interior.
Applying one coat of dye after EP ensures that the dye has excellent grip to the vinyl after which you will be applying dye on top of dye. If you run out of time and want to continue the next day, then because you have applied one coat of dye over EP you can do this. If you applied EP on NO coats of dye and decided to continue the next day (or after 2 hours) then you will need to start over again and mix/apply EP
D. Dyes are water based and are not meant to be applied neat onto Vinyl (slightly different when application is on leather).
After removing, masking up parts that you do not want to get dye on, mix dye with 30% water and filter into a clean container.
If you do not have filter paper then you can stretch some tights over a containers and pour the dye through this.
The first coat of dye that you will apply will be light, you may not see much change but it’s what you cannot see that is the good part.
Dry the first coat and then on the second coat you can apply more dye. With lighter colours you will need to apply more coats than if you were applying darker colours. (remember this when ordering colours)
In-between each coat, dry with a hairdryer and repeat until you get a uniform finish.
Spraying dye is the best way to get a factory matt finish.
E. Leave the dye and vinyl to cool. Once cool, if you lightly rub your hand over the finished surface and it feels a little gritty then you can use some 800 wet and dry sand paper (use dry NOT wet) and lightly sand. Wipe the sanding dust off with a damp cloth, dry and apply one last coat.
The dye MUST dry and cool before you sand with 800 grit. If you do this whilst still warm the dye can be removed.
F. If you want to add an extra layer of wear protection, then you can apply BL9 Super Matt sealer or for gloss BL10 Gloss sealer. Again, mix with 30% water and use the same technique as when applying the dye and we advise filtering the sealer. For a satin finish add small amounts of BL10 Gloss sealer with BL9 Super Matt until the desired finish is achieved.
For the ultimate in surface protection, you can use TCP (Top Coat Protection). A two-part mixture that must be applied within 3 hours of mixing. There is no need to filter TCP prior to spray application.
There is no point applying conditioner on vinyl parts.
Section 2.2
Dying New Vinyl
If you have had a bolster (most common) or another panel replaced though damage or wear, then you may notice that the new vinyl does no match. Be it colour or shade.
In this instance you can then either dye the new vinyl the same shade as the rest of the seat or (we recommend) renovate the whole seat including the new vinyl so that it’s a uniform match.
New Vinyl will have a protective clear coat that Is applied when manufactured or even with it. This clear coat can cause adhesion issues, so we would recommend braking down this clear coat.
This can be done using BL19 stripping solvent or thinners. It’s more difficult to notice if you have removed the clear coat protection from some vinyl’s, all you must remember is to give it a good wipe and cover all areas. Some vinyl’s have protection throughout, so removing a clear coat protection will uncover another. But with EP as an adhesive base, adhesion of dye will not be an issue.
Once you are at this stage then refer to Section 2, Vinyl, and Process Point B above.
It is entirely possible to dye a piece of new vinyl that is not of a similar colour to the vinyl that it will be sewn to.
For example:
It you have a cream vinyl interior, you can use a new beige, light or mid grey vinyl piece and then dye it to match. You can even go as far as dying black vinyl to cream, but we would suggest using a vinyl relatively similar.
If you are thinking about completely changing the colour of your vinyl, see instruction for “Colour Changing Leather or Vinyl” on our instruction page.
The advice given is a guide of how we renovate interiors, the materials and techniques used. If you have any questions about dye application using spray, please contact us.